Paws and Nails
The dog's paws provide traction and shock absorption and much to many owners unhappiness, they are handy for digging. Thick pads (vs. thin) absorb more shock and increase endurance. Rough pads allow for better traction for quick turns and effective sprinting.
Each foot has four pads on the ground, each with its own toenail. Dog toenails grow same as human fingernails and toenails. The nails should be kept at the correct length to avoid scratching when the dog paws its' human for attention and to keep the dog's structure as sound as possible. Long nails can cause the dog to rock back on his paws, causing strain on his leg assemblies and interfering with his gait. In puppies it is possible that long nails can affect the developing shape and structure of the foot and leg.
Some dogs grind down their own nails if they are allowed to exercise on concrete or other rough surfaces. Otherwise, the nails should be trimmed regularly by the owner. Nail trimmers are available at pet supply stores for this purpose. Most dogs (and owners) prefer the Dremel grinding tool to the mechanical type tools for trimming nails.
Dog nails have a blood supply or quick, but the end of the nails are dead tissue and can be clipped without pain. The trick is to trim as close to the quick as possible without actually cutting it and causing it to bleed. The quick appears as a dark line in white nails, but is almost impossible to see in dark nails. The best way to begin trimming is to clip only the sharp, curved portion of the nail and then work back a bit towards the paw. Clip only a small bit at a time to avoid cutting into the quick, which is painful for the dog and will leave a lasting memory. If the nails were very long, it can take several days to a week or more to get them back to their correct length without cutting into the quick.
The easiest way is to accustom puppies to having their feet handled daily so they'll sit still for this essential part of good grooming. Adult dogs may be more difficult, especially if they hate having their feet handled or have been quicked at some time. Patience and dedication are mandatory. If all else fails, a trip to the vet may be necessary.
There are two main types of feet in the canine, the cat foot and hare foot. In the Mudi the cat foot type is preferred. The cat foot type is a short, round foot which is the result of short third digital bones. These compact feet require less energy to lift, allowing the dog to conserve energy and increase his endurance in the field. Hare feet are elongated and narrow with the two center toes longer than the side toes. The hare foot type is generally regarded as a foot built for speed rather than endurance.
Some dogs have lots of hair on their feet and between their toes. Active dogs usually "self trim" this, especially if they have good access to concrete or other hard surfaces, dogs that live mostly on dirt or grass will not be as effective at keeping their nails and paw hair short. If this is the case with your dog, you might consider trimming the hair shorter to avoid caking of ice in the hair during the winter months as well as limiting salt retention from the sidewalks, which is very irritating (and some are toxic) to the dogs foot.
Paper foot is a foot that is flat, the pads are very thin. Splay foot is a foot where the toes are not close together. Both of these traits are faults in a Mudi foot.
The Mudi standard calls for feet that are: round with well knit toes (toes that are tightly together - not spread out as in splay foot). Little hair between and under the toes. Pads springy. Nails slate gray and hard. Dew claws are not desirable on the back feet.
Nail color in the Mudi is very dependent on coat color and the presence of white markings on the feet or foot.